Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan

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June 22, 2009 By cheryl

Mont-Saint-Michel: One Ancient Omelette


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We had heard about The Omelette, of course.

About how Annette Boutiaut, a late-19th Century innkeeper in Mont-Saint-Michel, had begun keeping eggs in store to whip together quick omelettes for hungry guests waiting for their dinner. We knew it was a key component of the town’s history — one that has thrived over the decades as a big tourist trap draw. 

Even so, as we approached Mont-Saint-Michel and marveled at its imposing medieval abbey on a mount rising from the water and towering over a vast expanse of grayish blue, it seemed like there should be more. 

If this grande dame of a town had to have a gastronomic one-trick pony, shouldn’t it be something more than a trifling breakfast dish masqeurading as dinner?

But there it was in every restaurant — most notably as the main course on a 55 Euro set menu at La Mère Poulard, where Annette’s omelettes first appeared. 

What could possibly be so special about a bunch of beaten eggs fried in a pan?

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Breakfast, France, Restaurants, Tales From the Road Tagged With: Annette Boutiaut, Brittany, La Mère Poulard, Le Mouton Blanc, Mont Saint Michel, Omelette, Souffle

June 20, 2009 By cheryl

When Brittany Was Our Oyster


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The rain was coming down, not hard, not gently — just with enough of a tap-tap-tap firmness to make us think more than twice of not stopping at all when we spotted the little oyster shacks by the Cancale bay. 

This being June, we knew we were technically in the wrong month for oysters — if you still believe the “you should only eat oysters in months with ‘R’ in their names” theory. But we were in Brittany, which reportedly produces a quarter of France’s oysters every year.

These oysters, they had to be tried.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: France, Snacks, Tales From the Road Tagged With: Brittany, Cancale, France, Oysters, Portland, The Oregonian

June 19, 2009 By cheryl

Paris: A Roman Behind The Bar


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We’re sitting at the Hemingway Bar at the Hôtel Ritz Paris, my friend Greg and I.

He leans over and says, soft and deep, “That face, it’s beyond the dreams of pornography.”

The face would be that of Roman the bartender, the friendliest man behind a bar that we’d met in our Paris jaunts thus far.

Greg and I, we’re bar people — we adore eating at bars, perhaps even more than eating at actual tables.

At bars, you tend to get to know your neighbors well — even if conversation only starts up because a fork is in your elbow. You have a front-row seat to behind-the-counter action, all the little dramas that aren’t meant to permeate through the welcoming smiles of waitresses.

You also get to know some pretty gifted entertainers pouring drinks — and Roman happened to be one of them.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Boites, France, Tales From the Road Tagged With: Benderitter, Food Network, Hemingway Bar, Hôtel Ritz, Midori, Paris, Paul-Michael, Roman

June 18, 2009 By cheryl

Paris: The Tried And True


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The upside to visiting Paris with a first-timer: The excuse to retread paths well worn.

There is the Angelina chocolat chaud yet undrunk, the freshly baked Poilane pains undiscovered. 

The sister, she has come to Paris with guidebooks well-marked and images of Amelie’s Montmartre flitting through her head. But first, the basics must be covered; important stops must be made.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Boites, Food Porn, France, Restaurants, Sweets, Tales From the Road Tagged With: A Moveable Feast, Amelie, Angelina, Barack Obama, Berthillon, Brasserie Lipp, Cafe Flore, Cervelas, Ernest Hemingway, Hacques Chirac, Ice-cream, Île Saint-Louis, Laduree, Les Deux Magots, Louis Vuitton, Macaroons, Mon Vieil Ami, Montmartre, Paris, Poilane, Seine, St. Germain

June 12, 2009 By cheryl

La Derniere Goutte (And A Lovely Discovery)


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When in Paris, we wanted to do as the Parisians do.

Or rather, given our limited French, what some expats in Paris do.

And so we found ourselves wandering the streets of St. Germain in search of La Derniere Goutte, a little wine shop my friend Barbra, a former and soon-to-be-again Parisian, had recommended.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Food Porn, France, Tales From the Road Tagged With: Escargot, La Derniere Goutte, Macaroons, Montpellier, Paris, St. Germain, Vignobles Orliac, Wine

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