Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan

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September 17, 2013 By cheryl

Hemingway's Hamburger: Papa's Favorite

Earlier this year, I was perusing a Boston Globe story about some Ernest Hemingway papers from the writer’s years in Cuba that had just been donated to the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library in Boston.

A book editor who’s on the board of the Finca Vigía Foundation in Boston, which has been working on preserving Hemingway’s Cuba documents and bringing them to the United States, had told me of the story and I could not wait to read it. I’ve long been a Hemingway fan — an admirer of not just his work but also his appetite for life, food and drink.

So it was unsurprising that one line in the story about what the new papers contained struck me: “And the more mundane, like his instructions to the household staff, including how to prepare his hamburgers: ground beef, onions, garlic, India relish, and capers, cooked so the edges were crispy but the center red and juicy.”

Hemingway’s ideal burger? I had to find out more.

Many weeks and a few burgers later, I wrote about my quest to recreate Hemingway’s hamburger in The Paris Review.

I won’t go into details — you can read more there. But for the recipe and another glimpse of the burger, click right here …

[Read more…]

Filed Under: American, Books, Recipes Tagged With: Cuba, Ernest Hemingway, Finca Vigia, Hamburger, Paris Review

August 15, 2013 By cheryl

Belle Harbor Steak House (Rockaway Park, N.Y.): Back to the Basics

There’s something to be said for a solid, old-school meal.

What this means varies, of course, depending on where you are. In the U.S., I’ve always relished the mom-and-pop low-key restaurants that still roll out unfussy, decades-old standbys — hot turkey platters, melts, meatloaf and more. (If you’ve read “A Tiger in the Kitchen,” you’ll know what a meatloaf obsessive I am.)

I find myself craving these meals when it gets a little chilly. And so on a recent rainy day, we found ourselves heading over to a little restaurant called Belle Harbor Steak House in Rockaway Park, New York.

I’d caught a glimpse of the menu a few days before and it seemed like just the place to warm you up on a cold drizzly afternoon …

[Read more…]

Filed Under: American, Beach, Meat, New York, Queens, Restaurants, Steak, Tales From the Road, The Beach, Travel Tagged With: Beach, Belle Harbor, Chicken Parmesan, Chocolate Pudding, Minestrone, New York, Rice Pudding, Rockaway Beach, Rockaway Park, Soup, Steak House, Turkey

August 12, 2013 By cheryl

Breezy Dogs & Shakes (Breezy Point, N.Y.): A Dog Day of Summer

Lunchtime on a hot summer’s day and two small boys are very silently perched on a bench near Fort Tilden Beach.

They’re still; their eyes a little glazed. Finally, one breaks the stupor to very slowly say, “These are soooo good.”

The source of their trance is at their elbows — two almost empty cups of thick, cold milkshakes and the carcass of lunch. At this point, sous chef and I have just gotten off a sunny bus ride all the way to the end of the Q22 line at Rockaway Beach, all in search of this mythical Breezy Dog food truck we’d been reading about.

From the look of the fog these boys were in, lunch was starting to seem worth the ride …

[Read more…]

Filed Under: American, Beach, Food Truck, New York, Queens, Tales From the Road, The Beach, Travel Tagged With: Beach, Breezy Dogs & Shakes, Breezy Point, Burgers, Food Truck, Fort Tilden, Hot Dogs, Milkshakes, New York, Rockaway Beach, Summer

August 11, 2013 By cheryl

The Wharf (Rockaway Beach, N.Y.): A View — With Food on the Side

Remember how I mentioned that people love to tell me where I must eat when I travel?

Well, The Wharf in New York‘s Rockaway Beach is certainly not one of those places.

Check it out, yes — I definitely heard that. With its outdoor dining deck with sweeping views of the water and Manhattan’s skyline in the distance, The Wharf’s vista for a sunset cocktail can’t be beat. But eat? We had read and heard enough about the food to know there were probably better restaurants in Rockaway Beach.

Even so, on a recent evening, as our cocktails on that famous deck were disappearing, the vaunted view was nudging us to stay.

How bad could the food truly be? We decided to find out …

[Read more…]

Filed Under: American, Beach, Brunch, New York, Queens, Restaurants, Seafood, Tales From the Road, The Beach, Travel Tagged With: Belle Harbor, Brunch, Fish, New York, Rockaway Beach, Seafood, Seaside, Steak, The Wharf, Waterfront

July 30, 2013 By cheryl

Lemon-Garlic Yellow Beans: A Summery Side

I may not be the biggest fan of vegetables but summer, with its vibrant farmers markets, always manages to lure me to the green side.

Or, as this week had it, the yellow side.

A late-afternoon visit to my neighborhood market this week yielded a lovely surprise — bags of bright yellow string beans going for just 50 cents.

What to do with them? I decided to take them home and see …

[Read more…]

Filed Under: American, Recipes, Vegetarian Tagged With: Brooklyn, Farmers Market, New York, Summer, Yellow beans

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