Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan

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September 30, 2009 By cheryl

Mooncakes: The Taste of Sweet Rebellion


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You know you’re walking into a hardcore kitchen when the first thing you see is stacks upon stacks of boxes filled with gorgeous home-made mooncakes.

The women on my Dad’s side of the family in Singapore — they’re fearless cooks.

Pineapple tarts, bak-zhang (glutinous rice dumplings wrapped in bamboo leaves), black vinegar-braised pig’s trotters? They could whip those together with their eyes closed.

Recently, however, the task at hand was Chinese mooncakes, eaten to mark the Mid-Autumn Festival, which falls this Saturday.

Now, there are a few old stories that explain the reason for eating these little cakes, which usually are filled with sweet lotus-seed paste and come either with a thin, baked crust or a soft, pliant dough skin that’s scented with pandan, a vanilla-like flavoring used in many Southeast Asian desserts. My favorite is the one of Ming revolutionaries planning to overthrow the Mongolian rulers of China during the Yuan dynasty and spreading word via letters baked into mooncakes. (Julia Child would’ve been so proud!)

During my Singaporean girlhood, I’d known the stories, I’d eaten the cakes. As for making them? That seemed so laughably difficult it never once crossed my mind.

It turns out, however, they’re incredibly easy to make — you just need the right teachers.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Dessert, Holidays, Shameless Promotion, Singapore, Snacks, Sweets, Tales From the Road Tagged With: China, Chinese, Green tea, Incredible Hulk, Julia Child, Lotus-seed paste, Melon seeds, Mid-Autumn Festival, Ming, Mochi flour, Mongolian, Mooncake, Seafoam, Teochew, Yam, Yuan dynasty

August 31, 2009 By cheryl

Braised Duck A L'Aunty Alice


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When I think of the family feasts of my Singapore girlhood, there’s always a duck in the picture.

To say that my people — that would be the Teochew ethnic group from Southern China — adore duck would be a major understatement. During a recent trip to Shantou, the area in China where my great-grandfather lived as a boy, duck and goose were inescapable at every dinner table.

So it’s more than slightly sacrilegious to say that I often avoid duck simply because it isn’t one of my favorites. (Hey, I’m a big hunk of red meat kind of gal — what can I say?)

I do make an exception for some versions, however — and Teochew-style braised duck is one of them.

While I’m really good at eating it, making it is another matter altogether. But this was something my Aunty Alice, the best cook among my mother and her sisters, was intent on fixing right away.

On a recent weekday, she arrived at my Singapore home armed with two ducks and a bag of ingredients and the tutorial began…

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Poultry, Recipes, Shameless Promotion, Singapore, Southeast Asian, Tales From the Road Tagged With: Aunty Alice, Braised duck, China, Eggs, Five-spice powder, Galangal, Garlic, Hockchew, Salt, Shantou, Soy sauce, Star Anise, Sugar, Teochew

June 3, 2009 By cheryl

A Tale of Six Meatballs


CIMG4598 It’s a little scary what can happen when a journalistic killer instinct is directed at something seemingly innocuous.

Like, meatballs. And the battle to be voted top meatball chef in a six-way competition.

There is the non-stop smack talk. There is the repeated invocation of maternal units. There is, even, the reflexive forming of menacing kung-fu gestures anytime the word “meatball” is mentioned.

And we haven’t even gotten to things that my fellow competitors did.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Contests, Meat, Recipes Tagged With: Adobo, Alfama, Arizona, Barbecue, Brooklyn Heights, Cafe Asean, Chili, Chorizo, Cotija Cheese, Curries Without Worries, Dates, Dauyew Bak, Filipino, French toast, Indian, Italian, Jack Daniels, Kung Fu, Le Cordon Bleu, Meatballs, Mooch, New York Times, Phoenix, Portuguese, Scallops, Simpson Wong, Soy sauce, Sudha Koul, Teochew, West Village

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