Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan

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September 22, 2010 By cheryl

Teochew Mooncakes: A Big Tease


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This time last year, I was in Singapore, learning how to make mooncakes, learning about my family.

The lessons in the kitchen were both informative and intense. Along with their braised duck recipes, the women in my family imparted their tales, their advice. I won't go into detail — you'll just have to buy the book when it comes out in February.

But I found myself thinking about my aunties and their life lessons as the Mid-Autumn Festival (which falls today) approached and mooncakes began appearing in Chinatown stores. The celebration, also known as the Mooncake festival, marks the day that the moon is supposedly the brightest during the year. In Singapore, we also call it the lantern festival because it's the night that children wielding lanterns in the shape of dragons, dogs, even Hello Kitty, take to parks and playgrounds to create a river of bobbing lights. 

In China, the celebration also commemorates the 14th Century rebellion against the reigning Mongols. Members of the resistance spread word about their planned uprising via notes tucked into cakes, which they smuggled to sympathizers.

While I learned to make traditional mooncakes in Singapore — filled with lotus seed paste and salted egg yolks — my aunties also taught me a version that's indigenous to my Chinese ethnic group, the Teochews. Filled with sweet mashed yam and wrapped in a decorative rippled fried dough, these "mooncakes" were simpler, less cloying — and just lovely with a hot cup of Oolong. 

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Filed Under: Shameless Promotion, Singapore, Singaporean, Snacks, Southeast Asian, Teochew Tagged With: Braised duck, Brooklyn, China, Chinatown, Chinese, Dough, Dragon, Hello Kitty, Kumquat, Lotus seed, Mid-Autumn Festival, Mongols, Mooncake, Oolong, Pineapple, Salted egg, Singapore, Strawberry, Teochew, Tung Lok, Yam

September 7, 2010 By cheryl

Asian Feastival: Southeast Asian Cooking Tips


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If one does have to work over a holiday weekend, this is not a bad way to do it: Eating and, well, talking about eating.

On Labor Day, at the Asian Feastival in Queens, I had the privilege of spending a lovely hour on a panel with New York chef and restaurateur Andy Yang (of Rhong-Tiam Express, a tiny Thai takeout place that he opened after closing his one Michelin-star restaurant Rhong-Tiam in January) and Kian Lam Kho, a private chef and caterer who blogs about Chinese home cooking at Red Cook. The food festival, which included tasting booths and cooking demonstrations by experts such as the effervescent blogger Maangchi, was designed to showcase Asian food from all regions.

Outside our cozy conference room, the booths and cooking displays meandered through Taiwan, Korea, China, the Philippines. Inside, however, our panel had a specific angle: Deconstructing Southeast Asian Flavors.

While I had felt that I had already learned a lot in the year I spent traveling to my native Singapore to learn to cook for my upcoming memoir, A Tiger In The Kitchen, I ended up picking up a few handy tips from our lively discussion …

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Filed Under: Queens, Singaporean, Southeast Asian, Thai Tagged With: Ang ku kueh, Asian Feastival, Ayam Penyet, Braised duck, Cilantro, David Thompson, Dragonfly, Elephant, Flying Lion, Helena Soedjak, Indonesia, James Oseland, Lee Chin Koon, Lee Kuan Yew, Lobster Farm, Mae Ploy, Mrs. Lee's Cookbook, Patricia Tanumihardja, Pichet Ong, Rasa Malaysia, Rose's Kitchen, Sesame oil, Singapore, Soy sauce, Squid, Sriracha, Sylvia Tan, Thai food, Thailand, The New Mrs. Lee's Cookbook, The Sweet Spot, Tiger, Tipparos, Umami, Violet Oon

August 31, 2009 By cheryl

Braised Duck A L'Aunty Alice


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When I think of the family feasts of my Singapore girlhood, there’s always a duck in the picture.

To say that my people — that would be the Teochew ethnic group from Southern China — adore duck would be a major understatement. During a recent trip to Shantou, the area in China where my great-grandfather lived as a boy, duck and goose were inescapable at every dinner table.

So it’s more than slightly sacrilegious to say that I often avoid duck simply because it isn’t one of my favorites. (Hey, I’m a big hunk of red meat kind of gal — what can I say?)

I do make an exception for some versions, however — and Teochew-style braised duck is one of them.

While I’m really good at eating it, making it is another matter altogether. But this was something my Aunty Alice, the best cook among my mother and her sisters, was intent on fixing right away.

On a recent weekday, she arrived at my Singapore home armed with two ducks and a bag of ingredients and the tutorial began…

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Filed Under: Poultry, Recipes, Shameless Promotion, Singapore, Southeast Asian, Tales From the Road Tagged With: Aunty Alice, Braised duck, China, Eggs, Five-spice powder, Galangal, Garlic, Hockchew, Salt, Shantou, Soy sauce, Star Anise, Sugar, Teochew

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