Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan

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April 13, 2013 By cheryl

White Street Sandwich Shop (Key West): A Cuban Coffee Must

First night in Key West and the locals are determined to school this food writer. The most important advice?

“The best places to get Cuban coffee are attached to laundromats.”

Sure, there’s Sandy’s — a place so well-known it’s got sleek rides pulling up all day to pick up trays of coffees to go along with giant bags of sandwiches and a fleet of delivery cars whizzing in and out as you wait 20 minutes for your order. But the one that people keep saying is the must is a little less celebrated.

Beloved as this place is, its name escapes them. “Just go to the corner of Union and White,” I am told.

And so on a sunny Saturday morning, taking a little break from my writing desk, I do …

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Filed Under: Coffee, Cuban, Florida, Sandwich, Tales From the Road Tagged With: Cafe con leche, Coffee, Cuban, Florida, Key West, Sandwich, Sandy's, White Street

February 13, 2013 By cheryl

River South (Hoe Nam) Prawn Noodles: Rainy Day Fukienese

Snow, biting winds, ice chips pelting my windows — last weekend’s storm in New York City has had me wondering why I don’t just throw in the towel each winter and decamp to tropical Singapore.

What has gotten me through these past few freezing, sloshy days however, is my intense memory of and cravings for Singapore noodle soups.

These are harder to find in cosmopolitan New York than you’d think. Sure, Cantonese wonton soups and Vietnamese phos are everywhere. But beefy Teochew broths spiked with star anise or rich Hainanese curried noodle soups? I actually have never seen those on menus around here.

So when the weather starts turning in New York, the cravings begin. Which is how I haven’t been able to get Hoe Nam prawn noodles out of my head …

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Filed Under: Asian, Hawkers, Hokkien, Noodles, Singapore, Soup, Tales From the Road Tagged With: Cantonese, Fukienese, Hainanese, Hawker, Hokkien, Macpherson, New York, River South Hoe Nam Prawn Noodles, Singapore, Teochew

November 9, 2012 By cheryl

Outram Park Fried Kway Teow Mee: Singapore's Best

For years, I’ve been telling anyone who’ll listen that the absolute best char kway teow in Singapore is over at Hill Street Fried Kway Teow

It appears, however, that I have been speaking out of turn. On a recent trip to Singapore, chef Willin Low (of the always impressive Wild Rocket restaurant) decided to correct me, putting me in his car and taking me to Hong Lim Market & Food Centre, a busy hawker center near the heart of Chinatown. Once there, we wended our way among the little stalls until we found one that had a line with more than a dozen people in it.

“Quick,” he said, shooing me to hurry over to Outram Park Fried Kway Teow Mee. “Get in line!”

This, apparently, was the best char kway teow in Singapore.

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Filed Under: Asian, Hawkers, Noodles, Singapore, Singaporean, So Good It Must Be Bad For You, Tales From the Road Tagged With: Char kway teow, Hong Lim Market and Food Centre, Noodles, Outram Park Fried Kway Teow Mee, Singapore

September 26, 2012 By cheryl

Chana Masala: Art You Can Eat

It is inevitable that any time at an artists colony will be plump with the exchange of ideas.

When you toss artists from disparate backgrounds into a small cauldron and essentially seal it for a month, art, words, music and and more will certainly be shared. And so it was for me at the Djerassi Resident Artists Program in Woodside, Calif., earlier this year, where I spent a month isolated on a mountain ranch with a tiny crew of colony mates that included talented artists from Mongolia, India and Austria, a wonderful choreographer and composer and writers who inspired me every day.

In addition to art, however, we ended up having some rich exchanges over something surprising: Cooking.

As you may have read before on this blog, colony chef Dan Tosh fed us tremendously well on weekdays. But on weekends, left to our own devices, we ended up taking to the stove to teach one other a little about the dishes that fueled us in our own homes. Which is how I came to learn to make out-of-this-world chana masala …

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Filed Under: Indian, Recipes, Tales From the Road Tagged With: Chana Masala, Chickpeas, Chole, Christy Funsch, Dan Tosh, Djerassi Resident Artists Program, Indian, Iris Andraschek, Surabhi Saraf

September 1, 2012 By cheryl

Minh Hoa Restaurant & Cajun Seafood: Vietnam in the Heartland

It’s always a treat to find good Asian food where you don’t quite expect it.

Recently, that unexpected place for me was Wichita, Kansas, where yes, I’d thought I’d find terrific steaks but Vietnamese? Never crossed my mind.

Now, no matter where I’ve been, be it little Strasburg, Virginia, or Boring, Oregon (yes, there is such a town and yes, I have been there), I expect to find decent Chinese food. (I’ve learned that any place in the U.S. tends to have a Chinese family hard at work somewhere churning out OK versions of General Tso’s chicken and kung pao beef.)

Any other kinds of Asian food, however, is a different matter. So I was pleasantly surprised to come across a restaurant in Wichita that served up not just Vietnamese — but good and less usual Vietnamese dishes.

You can read my full report on Minh Hoa Restaurant & Cajun Seafood in this weekend’s New York Times Travel section. But if you want to see more visuals, carry on reading here…

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Filed Under: Asian, Kansas, Restaurants, Tales From the Road, Travel, Vietnamese Tagged With: Bun mam, Cajun, Crayfish, Danang, Kansas, Mi Quong, Minh Hoa Restaurant & Cajun Seafood, Pho, Seafood, Vietnam, Vietnamese, Wichita

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