Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan

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May 21, 2012 By cheryl

Fishermen's Grotto (San Francisco): A Taste of The Old Wharf

It’s not every day that I look forward to eating at a cheeseball tourist trap.

The Fishermen’s Grotto in San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf, however, holds special meaning. Thirty years ago, when the sous chef was an undergrad at Stanford University, his father would breeze into town from their Iowa homestead and whisk him away to San Francisco.

There, the man would regale his son with stories of his own youth in 1950s San Francisco — and invariably, these trips would land the pair at a little place in the wharf. The old man would order a Shrimp Louis, remarking with prickly nostalgia that the pricey platter of creamy shrimp “used to cost just $3.50 back in the ’50s.” And over heaping plates of shrimp and fish, he would share the colorful stories of his bygone years.

So when the sous chef and I found ourselves in San Francisco last week, a visit to the old hangout became a must.

Battling sidewalks jammed with tourists and street artists offering to sketch our portraits, we wended our way along the breezy waterfront and found it: Fishermen’s Grotto, the very first restaurant in Fisherman’s Wharf …

[Read more…]

Filed Under: American, California, Fish, Restaurants Tagged With: California, Clam Chowder, Fisherman's Wharf, Italian, Restaurant, San Francisco, Seafood, Shrimp Louis, Tourist

December 12, 2011 By cheryl

Tasty n Sons (Portland, Oregon): Eggs, Anything But Easy

Perhaps you have noticed that it’s been a little quiet on this blog recently. The igvoiding (a word my sister loves) hasn’t been intentional, I assure you.

Travels for A Tiger in the Kitchen have taken me around the country and across several oceans in recent months. And when I haven’t been on a plane, at an event, prepping for an event or trip or simply recuperating from jet lag, I’ve been taking it (relatively) easy. I’ve rediscovered the pleasure of slowly reading a book — two I recently finished and can’t recommend highly enough: the elegantly written and enchanting “The Manual of Detection” by Jedediah Berry and “Three Junes” by the charming Julia Glass, which I dearly loved and also won the National Book Award for fiction in 2002.

As you might imagine, I have also been eating — very well, in fact. And one of the highlights occurred in Portland, Ore., when a break in the Wordstock Festival gave me a chance to visit a brunch spot friends had been raving about for months: Tasty n Sons.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Breakfast, Brunch, Oregon, Restaurants Tagged With: Breakfast, Brunch, Burmese, Chicken hash, Cornmeal, Creme Anglaise, Donuts, Eggs, Hash, Jedediah Berry, Julia Glass, Moroccan, National Book Award, Oregon, Pancakes, Portland, Restaurant, Stew, Tasty n Sons, The Manual of Detection, Three Junes

May 17, 2011 By cheryl

Brushstroke: Art on a Plate

In New York, the city that has pretty much seen it all, when one of the more intriguing restaurant concepts in recent memory finally opens its doors after three years in the works, important writing deadlines simply have to (temporarily) be damned.

After a long fascination with and love for Japanese food, David Bouley, the American restaurateur behind New York’s upscale French standard Bouley, finally dipped his spatula into the country’s culinary heritage in April, opening Brushstroke in TriBeCa, a collaboration with the Tsuji Culinary Institute in Osaka that was conceptualized as an homage to the cuisine. (The name is a nod to the artistry that goes into Japanese food presentation.)

We were curious to see what a French-inflected American chef and some of Japan’s best culinary instructors would cook up. So with great appetites, we closed our laptops and off we went …

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Asian, Japanese, New York, Restaurants Tagged With: Adzuki, Brushstroke, Dashi, David Bouley, El Bulli, Ferran Adria, Japan, Kiromitsu, New York, Osaka, Restaurant, Sashimi, Spain, Sushi, Tempura, Tsuji Culinary Institution

December 10, 2010 By cheryl

Spicy Pickled Beets: Holiday Crunch


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I've had the great fortune of not having to worry about making my own lunch recently.

Up in the woods of Saratoga Springs, N.Y., I wake up every day to breakfast and a prepared lunchbox, courtesy of a precious place that graciously gives artists (and misfits like me) space, time and food to create. (You can donate to the cause here. No, really. DO IT.)

I haven't forgotten my Let's Lunch friends, though — so, just for a day, I'm coming out of seclusion to share a recipe for a holiday side that's a true knockout: Spicy pickled beets …

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Asian, Recipes, Side Dishes Tagged With: Bake, Beets, Brad Farmerie, Christmas, Ginger, Gratin, Holiday, Kimchi, Leeks, Mushroom, New York, Parker House Rolls, Pickled, Public, Red wine vinegar, Restaurant, Risotto, Sides, Thanksgiving

November 30, 2010 By cheryl

Lotus of Siam: The Best Thai Restaurant in America?


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When a nationally respected critic declares in only the most revered food magazine in American history that a restaurant is the "single best Thai restaurant in the country," it's hard not to sit up and pay attention.

Now, ten years after the Pulitzer Prize-winning Jonathan Gold penned those words about Lotus of Siam in Las Vegas in Gourmet magazine, the restaurant has opened a branch in New York. 

The excitement and the buzz has been palpable since its early November opening, naturally. So the first chance we got, the lovely and insatiable Gael Greene and I were making plans to meet there for dinner.

Would it live up to the hype? We were eager to find out…

[Read more…]

Filed Under: New York, Restaurants, Thai Tagged With: Bangkok, Coconut, Crispy duck, Critic, Cru, Custard, Drunken noodles, Gael Greene, Gourmet magazine, Green curry, Jonathan Gold, Khao soi shortrib, Las Vegas, Lotus of Siam, Noodles, Pad Thai, Pulitzer prize, Restaurant, Saipin Chutima, Shea Gallante, Soft shell crab, Sticky rice, Thai, Thai jewels

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