Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan

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December 31, 2009 By cheryl

Top 10: The Memorable Eats Of 2009


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You know it’s been a good year when you are able to say this: 2009 was when I began to eat for a living.

I’d always been a devotee of affairs of the stomach. I may have written about fashion and other lifestyle areas for a living but baking, braising, trying new recipes, eating out — those were what consumed me when weekends rolled around. 

Luck has its ways of finding you, however. Now, on the precipice of 2010, I’m beginning to close out a lunar calendar year of cooking and eating with my family in Singapore as research for my book, “A Tiger In The Kitchen.” 

My journey so far has taken me many places — France, where I had the loveliest gingery champagne cocktail with friends old and dear; China, where my father and I went in search of my great-grandfather’s footprints in the village of his birth. And, of course, Singapore, where my aunties and maternal grandmother have been plying me with meals, recipes and much, much love along the way.

With all that I’ve packed into 2009, it’s hard to decide what the highlights have been. But, inspired by some stellar Top 10 gastronomic lists out there (definitely check out Sam Sifton’s list of Top 11 dishes in New York in the New York Times), I decided to give it a go.

Here, in no particular order, are my 10 memorable eats of 2009. 

Enjoy, buon appetito and listen, let’s do this again in 2010 …

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Bacon, Baking, Bread, France, Hainanese, Hawkers, Italian, Let's Lunch, Malay, Meat, New York, Poultry, Restaurants, Seafood, Singapore, Singaporean, Southeast Asian, Tales From the Road, Vietnamese Tagged With: Anthony Bourdain, Ayam Masak Merah, Bak Zhang, Baking, BLT, Bread, Bread Baker's Apprentice, Cancale, Caviar, Chinese, Crab Noodles, Dumpling, Grandmother, Gunther's, Indian, Malay, New York, New York Times, Oysters, Peter Reinhart, Sam Sifton, Singapore, Tiger In The Kitchen

December 22, 2009 By cheryl

Panettone: The Seven-Day Bread


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If you are among the people who believe that nothing says “The Holidays” like a festive loaf of panettone, let me just say this: You are mad.

This bread, it is evil.

It will drive you insane, make you tear your hair out. You may find yourself repeatedly staring intently at an unrising bowl of taupe glop, thinking, “Just, why, God, WHY?”

I mean this for the folks out there attempting to bake it, that is. (If you’re the sort who buys panettone in a store then, sure, go for it. I’m sure that’s pretty harmless.)

The problem I had here was holiday spirit.

Recently, I found myself so infused with the stuff that I decided to tackle panettone for the Bread Baker’s Apprentice challenge. 

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Baking, Books, Bread, Holidays, Italian Tagged With: Bolognese, Bread Baker's Apprentice, Christmas Song, Dough, Dried cranberries, Dried Mangoes, Dried pears, Ella Fitzgerald, Heston Blumenthal, Panettone, Rye Flour

November 27, 2009 By cheryl

Pane Siciliano: One Sexy Bread


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The same thing always happens when I’ve been on my weeks-long trips for book research in Singapore.

When I’m away, I find myself overcome with intense longing for something in my Brooklyn home. By the time I return, it’s all I can do to keep myself from running toward it (cue slow-motion romantic comedy music here) and getting it all hot and, well, hot.

My family home in Singapore doesn’t have an oven, you see — so when I’m away from my trusty hunk of stainless steel, a major itch to bake starts taking over.

When I returned this time, I was determined to jump back into the Bread Baker’s Apprentice challenge, where bakers around the world are making a bread each week from Peter Reinhart’s “The Bread Baker’s Apprentice.”

On the docket that week was pane Siciliano, a beautiful, golden Italian bread formed in a voluptuous “S” shape.

It seemed like just the thing to scratch my itch.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Baking, Bread Tagged With: Baguette, Baking, Bread, Bread Baker's Apprentice, Cheese, Italian, Pane Siciliano, Panettone, Pate fermentee, Peter Reinhart, Prosciutto, Recipe, Sicily, Singapore

November 13, 2009 By cheryl

Apple-Cornmeal Cake: A Reason To Celebrate


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A dear friend recently asked me what my ideal birthday cake would be.

My immediate answer was a pure pipe dream (in the U.S. anyhow) — a durian cream cake in which the sliver of cream wedged between two layers of pound cake is flecked with hefty chunks of creamy durian, a pungent, Southeast Asian fruit that’s hard to find in New York.

Now, if I can’t have durian cake, my second choice would be a vanilla cake coated with a creamy guava or passionfruit icing.

I know, I know.

I have been told I can be hard to please.

Having no durians, passionfruit or guava at hand, however, I set about making myself one of my absolute favorite fall cakes — an apple-cornmeal upside down cake that is so simple and can be assembled so quickly that I’ve set it out for more Thanksgiving and autumn meals than I can count. 

In fact, it’s what first came to mind when my Let’s Lunch group, a bunch of intrepid cooks around the world who have a standing monthly lunch date, decided to do a fall dessert for November.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Baking, Cake, Fall, Holidays, Let's Lunch, Thanksgiving Tagged With: Apple cornmeal cake, Apple Galette, Apple ice-cream, Autumn, Blue cheese, Cake, Cranberry Lime Tart, Durian, Gingersnaps, Guava, Let's Lunch, Passionfruit, Peanut Butter Pie, Persimmon, Southeast Asian, Thanksgiving, Upside down cake, Vanilla, Vegan Pumpkin Tart, Walnuts

September 24, 2009 By cheryl

Light Wheat Bread: Simple Does It


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The last time I baked a bread, what emerged from the oven was a loaf of casatiello, a gorgeous hunk of Italian bread studded with salami and oozing with hot cheese.

So you might understand why I wasn’t exactly looking forward to this week’s Bread Baker’s Apprentice challenge loaf: Light wheat bread.

After the sexy Italian, wheat bread seemed like the yawner of a boy next door.

(You know — the ugly one.)

But after having spent several weeks in Singapore without an oven at my disposal, I was itching to bake something. Anything.

And, as it turned out, this plain boy next door actually had his surprises.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Baking, Bread Tagged With: Bread Baker's Apprentice, Casatiello, Challenge, Cranberry, Loaf, Peter Reinhart, Singapore, Walnut, Wheat Bread, Yeastspotting

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