Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan

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December 8, 2009 By cheryl

The Breslin: Gastropub, Grown Up


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This is the sort of restaurant that The Breslin is: You will arrive on a Monday night to find the restaurant full and the bar jammed with the studiedly — and also studly — casual set. The wait, they will say, is 45 minutes to an hour.

You have a drink, some snacks and 45 minutes go by. An hour passes. There is still no word — even though a stroll through the dining room shows that there are not one, not two, but a few tables that have been sitting empty for a bit.

At almost 90 minutes, it’s getting a little tiresome. Nearby Koreatown is starting to look like a surer bet for dinner — but just as you start to gesture toward your bar waitress for the check, you spy her spotting you and then sprinting over to the hostess for a quick discussion. Faster than you can say “Check, please,” the hostess is by your side, telling you that now, there is a table open.

You consider leaving because, well, this is all a little bizarre. But you decide to stay — and it’s a good thing you do because what’s on the dinner menu, it turns out, is worth waiting for.

But you really wouldn’t expect anything less or different from owners of the Spotted Pig, the small West Village gastropub that quickly became the place for Leonardo DiCaprio spottings when it first opened in 2004. 

[Read more…]

Filed Under: British, Gastropub, New York, Restaurants, Snacks, So Good It Must Be Bad For You Tagged With: April Bloomfield, Arteries, Asian grocery store, British, Caramel popcorn, Coffee, House smoked ham with piccalilli, Koreatown, Lamb, Lamb burger, Mint, Mint vinegar, Muffin top, New York, Pears, Pomegranate seeds, Pork scratchings, Poussin, Pumpkin seeds, Roasted pumpkin, Salad, Scotch egg, Scrumpets, Sticky toffee pudding, The Breslin, The Spotted Pig, West Village

August 10, 2009 By cheryl

Joseph Leonard: A Salty Start


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Joseph Leonard is one of those restaurants that might have you thinking, “Recession? What recession?”

On the first night that the little West Village restaurant started serving dinner, it was so packed that finding a spot to perch for a drink was a challenge, much less a table for four. And this was well after 9 p.m. on a weeknight.

But this level of interest in a place so new it had a dessert menu to tempt diners but weren’t actually equipped to serve dessert yet is unsurprising.

New York food folks have been working themselves up into a big froth over Joseph Leonard, after all, since Gabriel Stulman, a former owner of the much-beloved Little Owl and Market Table in the West Village, announced he was opening a new restaurant. And, of course, it didn’t hurt that Vogue.com did a “People Are Talking About” item about the carefully planned grandma’s garage sale meets farmhouse rustic decor of the place more than a month before it opened.

While I’m generally skeptical of this level of pre-opening hype, I have a great deal of respect and fondness for Little Owl and Market Table.

And, Joseph Leonard (named for Stulman’s two grandfathers), with its cozy setting and equally comforting lineup of dishes, is likely to please many — especially those who love salt, which chef Jim McDuffee (formerly of Bouchon Bakery) seems to be rather fond of.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: New York, Restaurants Tagged With: Andouille, Avocado, Bouchon Bakery, Brandade, Corn Soup, Creme Fraiche, Fish, Fries, Frisee, Gabriel Stulman, Grits, James McDuffee, Joseph Leonard, Little Owl, Market Table, Mussels, New York, Onion, Oysters, Peach Tart, Salt, Salt Cod, Shrimp, Softshell crab, Vermont cheddar, Vogue, West Village

June 3, 2009 By cheryl

A Tale of Six Meatballs


CIMG4598 It’s a little scary what can happen when a journalistic killer instinct is directed at something seemingly innocuous.

Like, meatballs. And the battle to be voted top meatball chef in a six-way competition.

There is the non-stop smack talk. There is the repeated invocation of maternal units. There is, even, the reflexive forming of menacing kung-fu gestures anytime the word “meatball” is mentioned.

And we haven’t even gotten to things that my fellow competitors did.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Contests, Meat, Recipes Tagged With: Adobo, Alfama, Arizona, Barbecue, Brooklyn Heights, Cafe Asean, Chili, Chorizo, Cotija Cheese, Curries Without Worries, Dates, Dauyew Bak, Filipino, French toast, Indian, Italian, Jack Daniels, Kung Fu, Le Cordon Bleu, Meatballs, Mooch, New York Times, Phoenix, Portuguese, Scallops, Simpson Wong, Soy sauce, Sudha Koul, Teochew, West Village

May 29, 2009 By cheryl

I'll Have The Genitals, Please


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There’s something a little inappropriate about Pho Sure/Baoguette, Michael
Huynh’s new Vietnamese noodle-slash-sandwich joint in the West Village.

There are the kneeling Vietnamese maidens in barely-there tops plastered all over the wallpaper in a comely repeat pattern. And then, there’s the bull’s penis, practically waving at you from the menu. 

Yes, that would be the sliced up genitals of a bull served either with pho or a simmering hot bowl of soup.

Feel uncomfortable yet?

[Read more…]

Filed Under: New York, Restaurants Tagged With: Baoguette, Beavis & Butt-Head, Bull's Penis, Bun, Genitals, Kiwi, Michael Huynh, New York, Peen, Pho 75, Pho Sure, Soft shell crab, Steak, Vermicelli, West Village, Yuzu

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