Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan

Author Website

  • Home
  • Bio
  • Books
  • Events
  • Work
  • Blog
  • Contact

August 15, 2014 By cheryl

Char Bee Hoon: The Real Singapore Noodles

Char Bee HoonChoosing a favorite summer memory from my girlhood in Singapore can be difficult — since the country is right by the equator, it’s summer all year round.

Yes, that means all my childhood memories are summer ones.

But when Karen over at GeoFooding asked me to choose a favorite childhood food memory to write about for this month’s Let’s Lunch virtual lunchdate (which happens to be on Julia Childs’ birthday — happy birthday, Julia!), one dish instantly came to mind.

In fact the thought of it was so intense I almost felt I could taste it right there and then — my mother’s char bee hoon …

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Asian, Chinese, Let's Lunch, Noodles, Recipes, Singaporean Tagged With: Char Bee Hoon, Mom, Noodles, Singapore, Vermicelli

November 5, 2010 By cheryl

Birthday Noodles: To Sweetness & Longevity


Sing1010 038

One birthday is good, but two is always better.

Growing up in a Singapore, a country that follows the lunar as well as the Western calendar, celebrating two birthdays each year was always a given. Cake, flowers and presents are lovely for Western birthdays. But for lunar calendar birthdays — or Chinese birthdays, as my family calls them — things are several notches simpler. The star of this show is always a bowl of noodles, symbolic of longevity, a pair of hardboiled eggs, representing fertility or life. And all of this comes in a sugary soup — "so the whole year will be sweet," as my mother says.  

For too many years in America, my Chinese birthday — which I'm fortunate to be able to remember easily because it falls on Diwali each year — passed with little fanfare. Sure, my parents would call New York to wish me well. But the noodles, the eggs and the sweet broth — that always seemed like just a little too much trouble.

This year, however, as Diwali began today, I found myself temporarily stranded in Singapore due to unforeseen circumstances. So for lunch, my mother had a little treat planned: birthday noodles. "You must eat this," she said. "For luck."

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Asian, Recipes, Singapore, Singaporean, Soup, Tales From the Road, Teochew Tagged With: Birthday, Diwali, Eggs, Flour, Lunar calendar, Noodles, Sugar, Vermicelli, Western calendar

November 23, 2009 By cheryl

Obao: Panned Asian


CIMG0567

New York is filled with so many “pan-Asian” restaurants that it can be difficult to get excited about yet another one setting up shop.

Vietnamese pork chops? Been there. Summer rolls? So, so done that.

And Obao, Michael Huynh’s newest addition to his rapidly expanding string of Manhattan restaurants, hits these and all the other usual notes that you’ll find at many other similarly billed places in the city.

What’s different? Not much, compared with your run-of-the-mill multi-ethnic Asian restaurant.

There are some hits — anything meaty and/or grilled. And, of course, some misses, namely a “spicy” Singapore laksa (pictured above) that’s so watered down that its broth tastes like hot water with some curry powder tossed in toward the end.

But here’s the thing: Even at Obao’s recession-friendly prices (which put entrees between $9 and $18), for those who enjoy a hearty bowl of noodle soup or a crisp papaya salad now and then, there are just so many other places in the city to go for better versions.

So, why eat here?

[Read more…]

Filed Under: New York, Restaurants, Singaporean, Southeast Asian, Vietnamese Tagged With: Aldea, Arroz de pato, Bun bo hue, Cha ca la vong, Confit, Crackling, Dill, Duck, Eggplant, Fish, Grilled steak, Hanoi, Laksa, Lemongrass, Midtown, Obao, Papaya Salad, Pig's feet, Pork, Pork chops, Skewers, Spare ribs, Sugar cane, Turmeric, Vermicelli, Xie Xie

July 30, 2009 By cheryl

Nantucket: The Art of Winging It


CIMG7666

I’ve always envied people who can look in a fridge, grab a bunch of things and whip together an impressive meal.

The times that I’ve done that, I’ve managed to oh, muster up a ham scramble.

As someone who entered the kitchen fairly late in life, my insecurities always get the better of me. So when it comes to cooking, I’m much more of a planner — I like to think things through a fair bit first if I’ve never made a dish before. I’ll look up dozens of recipes before settling on what to make. And I’ll read a recipe several times over to plan any changes or additions before setting foot in the kitchen.

But, watching the ease and freedom of chefs who cook purely by instinct — that confidence always gets me. I can’t help but feel like the child on a tricycle, watching far braver kids whizzing past on ten-speed bikes.

How to bridge that gulf?

In the kitchen of a little beach cottage on Nantucket, I started taking baby steps.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Food Porn, Recipes, Tales From the Road, The Beach Tagged With: Blackberries, Cafe Asean, Cilantro, Epicurious, Fermented bean paste, Ham scramble, iPhone, Italy, Kitchen sink, Leftovers, Manhattan, Nantucket, Noodles, Peaches, Peter Reinhart, Pizza, Shallots, Swiss Chard, Tom Yum, Tuna, Vermicelli

May 29, 2009 By cheryl

I'll Have The Genitals, Please


CIMG4546

There’s something a little inappropriate about Pho Sure/Baoguette, Michael
Huynh’s new Vietnamese noodle-slash-sandwich joint in the West Village.

There are the kneeling Vietnamese maidens in barely-there tops plastered all over the wallpaper in a comely repeat pattern. And then, there’s the bull’s penis, practically waving at you from the menu. 

Yes, that would be the sliced up genitals of a bull served either with pho or a simmering hot bowl of soup.

Feel uncomfortable yet?

[Read more…]

Filed Under: New York, Restaurants Tagged With: Baoguette, Beavis & Butt-Head, Bull's Penis, Bun, Genitals, Kiwi, Michael Huynh, New York, Peen, Pho 75, Pho Sure, Soft shell crab, Steak, Vermicelli, West Village, Yuzu

Copyright © 2025 CHERYL LU-LIEN TAN · Site design: Ilsa Brink