Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan

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March 8, 2010 By cheryl

Pineapple Tarts: The Start Of The Journey


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In the beginning, there were pineapple tarts.

These buttery, crumbly, bite-sized marvels bewitched me as a child in Singapore. My paternal grandmother made the best ones, of course — every Chinese new year, she would hit the kitchen to churn out her tarts, pushing me to eat as many as I wanted as we sat in her living room, unhurriedly passing time.

I never learned to make my grandmother’s tarts as a child, unfortunately.

When I was 11, she died. And the chance for her to teach me anything suddenly vanished.

After many years of mourning this lost opportunity, I traveled back to Singapore in early 2009 to learn how to make these tarts from my aunts. My grandmother had taught them how to bake the tarts when she was alive and they were now the keepers of her prized recipe, which I’ve included below.

The experience was enlightening — but it also generated a spark. I now knew how to make the tarts of my grandmother, a legendary cook in our family and to all she knew.

But still, I wanted more.

Thus began a journey of discovery — one that would take place in the kitchens of my Singapore family. Over the next lunar calendar year, the women of my family would gather over hot stoves to laugh, tell stories, shake our heads and, above all else, cook.

The story of my journey will be shared very soon. (Hyperion’s Voice is publishing “A Tiger In The Kitchen” in January 2011.)

But first, it must be written — and so I must bow out of this blog for a while. Seven weeks, to be exact. (Special thanks to Yaddo, the artists’ colony, for generously offering me a nook in the woods to think and create.)

I hope you’ll forgive this absence, but you must admit, it’s for a rather good reason. 

When I return in late April, I’ll be looking for all of you. My year of cooking in Singapore is over but the journey continues here. And I hope you’ll be coming along with me.

Until then, buon appetito and enjoy …

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Baking, Cookies, Dessert, Holidays, Recipes, Singapore, Singaporean, So Good It Must Be Bad For You, Sweets, Tales From the Road Tagged With: Baking, Buon appetito, Butter, Chinese new year, Cinnamon, Grandmother, Jam, Lunar calendar year, Pandan leaves, Pineapple Tarts, Singapore, Sugar, Wall Street Journal

December 8, 2009 By cheryl

The Breslin: Gastropub, Grown Up


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This is the sort of restaurant that The Breslin is: You will arrive on a Monday night to find the restaurant full and the bar jammed with the studiedly — and also studly — casual set. The wait, they will say, is 45 minutes to an hour.

You have a drink, some snacks and 45 minutes go by. An hour passes. There is still no word — even though a stroll through the dining room shows that there are not one, not two, but a few tables that have been sitting empty for a bit.

At almost 90 minutes, it’s getting a little tiresome. Nearby Koreatown is starting to look like a surer bet for dinner — but just as you start to gesture toward your bar waitress for the check, you spy her spotting you and then sprinting over to the hostess for a quick discussion. Faster than you can say “Check, please,” the hostess is by your side, telling you that now, there is a table open.

You consider leaving because, well, this is all a little bizarre. But you decide to stay — and it’s a good thing you do because what’s on the dinner menu, it turns out, is worth waiting for.

But you really wouldn’t expect anything less or different from owners of the Spotted Pig, the small West Village gastropub that quickly became the place for Leonardo DiCaprio spottings when it first opened in 2004. 

[Read more…]

Filed Under: British, Gastropub, New York, Restaurants, Snacks, So Good It Must Be Bad For You Tagged With: April Bloomfield, Arteries, Asian grocery store, British, Caramel popcorn, Coffee, House smoked ham with piccalilli, Koreatown, Lamb, Lamb burger, Mint, Mint vinegar, Muffin top, New York, Pears, Pomegranate seeds, Pork scratchings, Poussin, Pumpkin seeds, Roasted pumpkin, Salad, Scotch egg, Scrumpets, Sticky toffee pudding, The Breslin, The Spotted Pig, West Village

December 4, 2009 By cheryl

Leftover Turkey Hash Brown Quiche: Dieters Beware


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As much as I love Thanksgiving, I may adore the days after the holiday even more.

One word: Leftovers.

Sure turkey dinners with stuffing and corn pudding that have been doused in so much gravy that you have a thick, glistening brown moat on your plate are unbeatable. But this is also a great time to rev up your creativity in the kitchen.

What to do with your mounds of leftover turkey? Our Let’s Lunch bunch — a group of far-flung home cooks who have a monthly lunch date on Twitter — decided to tackle this question for December.

My answer? A garlicky turkey hash brown quiche.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Breakfast, Brunch, Holidays, Let's Lunch, Recipes, So Good It Must Be Bad For You, Thanksgiving Tagged With: Basil, Black pepper, Butter, Cheddar, Cheese, Eggs, Garlic, Green onions, Ham, Hash Brown, Herbs, Holidays, Leftovers, Olive Oil, Oregano, Paula Deen, Quiche, Rosemary, Thanksgiving, Thyme, Turkey

September 8, 2009 By cheryl

Scissor-Cut Rice: One Handsome (Tasting) Meal


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My New York friend Mark likes to tell the story of how, on his first visit to Singapore, he stopped a group of people near a hawker center, asking them which was the best place to eat in the area. 

“Big scissors!” was the immediate answer.

Which may seem an odd name for a food establishment to some. But in Singapore, the word “scissors” indicates that this is a stall in which you buy a plate of rice, point to a bunch of dishes (usually holding items like tofu, fried eggs or pork chops) and the hawker then piles what you’ve chosen on the plate and snips it all up into bite-size pieces with — you got it — a big pair of scissors.

While this could come across as a rather unorthodox way of serving a meal, let me tell you, places with the word “scissors” in their names often churn out pretty darn satisfying food. In Mark’s case, his meal — which he still regularly recounts with great gusto and yearning — was at Big Scissors Curry Rice at Maxwell Food Centre. 

Recently, I had the good fortune of discovering another gem in the “scissors” category: Beach Road Scissor-Cut Curry Rice. 

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Hainanese, Hawkers, Rice, Singapore, So Good It Must Be Bad For You, Tales From the Road Tagged With: Beach Road Scissor-Cut Curry Rice, Big Scissors Curry Rice, Fishcakes, Ikan Bilis, Jalan Besar, Maxwell Food Centre, New York, Pork chops, Red-light district, Shopping Center, Singapore, Tofu

July 20, 2009 By cheryl

Cowgirl Sea-Horse: Fish So Good It's Got To Be Bad For You


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It’s always a little unfair to judge a restaurant based on its first week out the gate — kinks still have to be worked out; the kitchen may not have found its rhythm yet.

Judging from a visit to Cowgirl Sea-Horse just days after it opened, it’s a place well worth checking out. If things are only expected to get better after the first week, well, let’s just say they’re already pretty darn satisfying.

This new seafood outpost of the popular Cowgirl in the West Village has the same Southwestern flavor and Steel Magnolia bartenders that the original restaurant does. But it offers slightly different fare from the chicken-fried steaks and smoked barbecue ribs that have been mainstay of Cowgirl for decades.

On the menu are $12 to $14 seafood gumbos, fish tacos and shrimp cornettas (crispy cones filled with shrimp). Like Cowgirl, it does a good job at what it does — uncomplicated comfort food. One thread links the two restaurants: there’s an awful lot of fried in both places.

Not that there’s anything wrong with that, of course.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: New York, Restaurants, Seafood, So Good It Must Be Bad For You Tagged With: Baked potato, Brooklyn Bridge, Cowgirl, Cowgirl Sea-Horse, Hot Fudge, Ice-cream, Jalapeno, New York, Po'boys, Rattlesnake, Reuben Sandwich, South Street Seaport, Steel Magnolia, Swiss Cheese, Thousand Island

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